The bus from Madrid about 7 1/2 hours south into the city of Màlaga, the birthplace of Picasso and also the cultural capital of Europe in the near future of 2017. Ten more years to go and already the scaffolding is out, renovating an already beautiful city. The Costa del Sol. Dark grainy sands but perfect Mediterranean breezes. We arrived in the evening and locked up our packs at the station, walked out to find a hostel.
For my taste Spanish cuisine leaves much to be desired - however it is the joyful quality of the endless tapas bars that satisfy me completely. The food and wine cheap and delicious, all served on wooden barrels in the street. Cold rosé and calamari, jamon de serrano, potato and egg tortes, roasted green peppers and stew like pista with white bread. Costs you less than 10E and you sit at the little barrels late into the night, admiring the shrimp pancakes the fellow next to you just ordered and asking sweetly for a light.
The port city of Màlaga is lined with the obvious harbour and a tropical park at the mouth of the harbour. Hibiscus flowers and date palms. I tasted my first fresh date, yellow and hard and strangely sweet. Adam put a flower in my hair.
Walking through the marbled pedestrian area a gypsy sang and played the accordion. We found our way to the Picasso museum, our second, a collection of his earliest work. The museum was built atop an old archaeological site which had been excavated and which lay preserved with mysteriously modern stairwells wrapping around it. Fourth century cisterns and city walls. What amazed me is how many layers of old cities we build on top of - the old Màlaga lay at least ten meters below street level.
A bus ride in the afternoon down the Costa del Sol, past the drudgery of Marbella and the soulless developed coastline, long past its prime, obscuring the sea. The Rock of Gibraltar stands high and proud, jutting out along the southern edge. Adam fumbled for his camera.
And finally to the port of Algeciras, with ferries pointed toward Morocco.
For my taste Spanish cuisine leaves much to be desired - however it is the joyful quality of the endless tapas bars that satisfy me completely. The food and wine cheap and delicious, all served on wooden barrels in the street. Cold rosé and calamari, jamon de serrano, potato and egg tortes, roasted green peppers and stew like pista with white bread. Costs you less than 10E and you sit at the little barrels late into the night, admiring the shrimp pancakes the fellow next to you just ordered and asking sweetly for a light.
The port city of Màlaga is lined with the obvious harbour and a tropical park at the mouth of the harbour. Hibiscus flowers and date palms. I tasted my first fresh date, yellow and hard and strangely sweet. Adam put a flower in my hair.
Walking through the marbled pedestrian area a gypsy sang and played the accordion. We found our way to the Picasso museum, our second, a collection of his earliest work. The museum was built atop an old archaeological site which had been excavated and which lay preserved with mysteriously modern stairwells wrapping around it. Fourth century cisterns and city walls. What amazed me is how many layers of old cities we build on top of - the old Màlaga lay at least ten meters below street level.
A bus ride in the afternoon down the Costa del Sol, past the drudgery of Marbella and the soulless developed coastline, long past its prime, obscuring the sea. The Rock of Gibraltar stands high and proud, jutting out along the southern edge. Adam fumbled for his camera.
And finally to the port of Algeciras, with ferries pointed toward Morocco.
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